After a few relaxing days on Koh Samet, it was time to make our way back to Bangkok for the final stop of our Thailand adventure. We started the morning with an early breakfast before heading to the pier, where we caught a fast catamaran back to the mainland. From there, it was onto a minivan for the roughly three-hour journey into Bangkok.

We arrived at the Centre Point Plus Hotel Silom around 12:30pm, a little too early to check into our room. No big deal, though. We dropped off our bags and explored the shopping centre attached to the hotel, where we grabbed some lunch before returning to check in. 

Once we had settled in, we caught a taxi over to Talat Noi, one of Bangkok’s older neighbourhoods, tucked between Chinatown and the Chao Phraya River. Historically a community of Chinese merchants, mechanics and traders, it has a interesting mix of old shopfronts, workshops, traditional buildings, little cafés and colourful street art.

One of the first things we came across was a Bumblebee Transformer statue, which is apparently made from scrap metal by a local craftsman. It was certainly not what we expected to see, specially among the traditional buildings and workshops, but that’s part of what makes Talat Noi so interesting. The neighbourhood manages to mix its working-class history with modern art and quirky attractions without losing its character.

We continued exploring the street art, including a narrow lane filled with colourful murals, little coffee shops and plenty of interesting spots to stop for photos. The artwork is scattered throughout the neighbourhood, so exploring on foot is the best way to see it.

As we wandered around, we also stumbled across something we hadn’t planned for: Bangkok’s Vegetarian Festival. Known locally as the Jay Festival, this Thai-Chinese religious tradition takes place around September or October and sees devotees abstain from meat as part of a period of spiritual purification, I had once seen this festival in Khao Lak many years before and it was interesting to see again. In particular as it involves temple ceremonies, offerings and vegetarian food  on offer, plus everyone is dressed in white which is interesting to see.

By this stage, we were getting tired, so we negotiated a price with a tuk-tuk driver and headed back to the hotel. We spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing in the pool before heading out for dinner locally at Ma! Bangrak street food market. It was a nice way to finish our first day back in Bangkok, with some good food options and some cold drinks!

Back in our room, we sat on the balcony with cold drinks, looking out over the Chao Phraya River. Sitting there watching the colourful boats pass by, with Bangkok stretching out around us, was a lovely way to end the evening.

The next morning was our last full adventure before heading home, and we had booked the Old Waterways canal tour with Hidden Bangkok Tours. For getting around Thailand, we’d been using Bolt quite a bit as I found its prices generally cheaper than Grab.

Our journey to the tour’s starting point involved the usual Bangkok traffic, followed by some rather tight roads that seemed to get narrower the further we went. Eventually, we reached the meeting point near the river and were soon aboard our private boat, ready to explore a different side of the city.

Bangkok has an extensive network of canals, known as khlongs. Before modern roads, these waterways were the routes for transport, trade and everyday life. Many canalside communities still live alongside the water, with wooden houses, small piers, temples and local shops lining the banks.

The Old Waterways tour with Hidden Bangkok Tours explores these historic waterways, including the Bangkok Yai Canal, going past traditional homes, temples and neighbourhoods, an entire world away from the busy roads. Almost immediately, we could feel the difference. The noise and congestion of Bangkok seemed to disappear as we cruised slowly along the canals. 

At the start of the tour, we were offered a choice of stopping at the enormous Buddha at Wat Paknam Phasi Charoen or visiting the Artist’s House, also known as Baan Silapin, in the Khlong Bang Luang community. We decided the Artist’s House would be more fun for the whole family, so we headed there.

The Artist’s House is a traditional riverside building that has become a community space, with art, handicrafts, small shops and places to explore. It offers a glimpse of the older canal-side neighbourhood while giving visitors the chance to get involved in some of the creative activities. We wandered around, took photos and had a look at the artwork and displays. Eloise made herself a bracelet, while Xander found a piano and happily spent some time playing it. It was a great little stop, and I even managed to get myself another Thai Iced Tea, they are so refreshing!

After spending some time there, we climbed back aboard our boat and continued along the canals. We passed the huge Buddha at Wat Paknam Phasi Charoen, which rises high above the surrounding neighbourhood. The giant seated Buddha is one of the area’s most recognisable landmarks, and it was impressive seeing it from the water. We stopped to take a few photos as we passed, before continuing towards the main river.

Getting back out onto the Chao Phraya involved going through a canal lock. The boat entered the chamber, where the water level was adjusted to allow us to pass between the canal and the river. Once the level had changed, we were able to continue out onto the much wider Chao Phraya, where the water was much rougher. 

We finished our tour at the Wat Pho Pier and from there, we caught a river boat back towards our hotel. We had technically already checked out, however we’d left our luggage with the hotel and were allowed to return to use the facilities, so we had a shower to freshen up before we travelled to the airport.

And just like that, our holiday was coming to an end. We had travelled from the streets of Bangkok to the mountains and lagoons of Laos, explored temples and night markets in Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai, visited the area made famous by the Tham Luang cave rescue, and spent a few days unwinding on Koh Samet. There had been early starts, long travel days, plenty of local food, cold beers, swimming pools, markets, boat rides and more than a few unexpected discoveries along the way.

Finishing our trip on the canals of Bangkok was a great choice. We’d already seen plenty of the city’s busy side, but this final outing showed us a quieter, more traditional part of life along the waterways. It was a fitting way to finish a trip that had been full of new experiences for all four of us.

Thailand and Laos, it’s been a fantastic adventure. Now it was time to head home, start sorting through the photos and videos, and begin thinking about where we’d go next.

After a few busy days exploring Northern Thailand, it was time for some beach time and we travelled to Koh Samet for a chance to slow down for a few days. Getting there, however, was going to take most of the day.

We started with a taxi ride to the airport, which took way longer than expected due to roadworks, which made our Bolt driver having to drive the long way around, which was still the fastest way. Once we finally arrived, we boarded our AirAsia flight (managing to get through without anyone pulling us aside due to us having more than the 7kg carry on allowance). We soon landed at Don Mueang Airport in Bangkok. I’d originally booked a flight into Suvarnabhumi Airport, as it would have made the trip easier and faster, however AirAsia had cancelled our original flight and automatically moved us to this one.

After landing, we had to find our driver, which took a little while. Once we were on our way, it took around 50 minutes just to get past Suvarnabhumi Airport. Anyway, we had a quick stop along the way where we got some lunch and a toilet break before eventually reaching the pier, ready for the final leg of the journey.

Unfortunately, we’d arrived too late to catch the slower boat across to Koh Samet. The alternative was a speedboat for 200 baht per person, but there was one catch: they needed at least eight passengers. Rather than sit around waiting for enough people to turn up, we decided to hire the whole boat ourselves. It cost us more than sharing would have, but after a long day of travelling, we were more than happy to pay to just get moving.

Once we reached the island and checked into Samed Villa Resort, we could finally relax. We spent the rest of the evening wandering along the beach, found a spot by the water for dinner, and watched one of the beachside fire shows. After flights, taxis, roadworks and boats, sitting by the ocean was exactly what we needed. We had made it to Koh Samet, and now it was time to just chill for a few days.

Our first proper day was all about taking things slowly, although we did have one important job to take care of: laundry. The hotel offered a laundry service, but apparently our clothes would need to be sent back to the mainland to be washed and returned to the island, meaning a three-day turnaround. We decided to take matters into our own hands and use a laundromat instead. It certainly wasn’t as enjoyable as handing over a bag of dirty clothes and having someone else deal with them, but at least we wouldn’t have to wait half our stay to get them back.

With the washing sorted, we caught one of the local taxi vans to Sai Kaew Beach, the island’s main beach area. We found somewhere to have lunch right by the sand, then spent the afternoon doing what we’d come here for: relaxing near the water and wandering over to another beach for a change of scenery. 

That evening, we returned to our familiar routine of dinner beside the beach, another fire show and then back to our bungalow. After travelling through Laos and northern Thailand, it was nice to have a few days where the biggest decision was which stretch of sand to sit on.

The following morning, I decided it was time to do something I hadn’t done in many years: hire a scooter. One of the best things about Koh Samet is that the island is small enough to explore at your own pace, and having our own wheels meant we didn’t have to rely on the local taxis every time we wanted to visit another beach.

Eloise came along for the first ride, and we headed right down to the southern tip of the island. Here, we explored the southern-end viewpoints, reached by short walking paths from the end of the road. It was a lovely spot to stop, stretch our legs and take in a different side of Koh Samet, away from the busier beaches.

After our little adventure, Eloise and I rode back to the beach where we met up with Suz and Xander for lunch. Then it was Xander’s turn to jump on the scooter with me. We crossed the island to Ao Prao Beach, on the western side, and spent some time strolling along the sand before heading back across to the main area for a cold drink from 7-Eleven. Sometimes, a cold drink from 7-Eleven is all the sightseeing you need.

Once we were back, Xander and Eloise stayed in the room while Suz and I took the opportunity to go for a ride together. We headed south again, this time stopping at Wai Beach. We grabbed a cold drink, went for a swim in the ocean and tried a little snorkelling to see if we could spot anything interesting. Unfortunately, the underwater scenery was very poor, but that’s the way it goes sometimes.

After our swim, we rode back to our beach and I returned the scooter. It had been great having the freedom to explore wherever we wanted without having to organise a taxi or wait for someone else to take us around. We’d managed to see several different parts of the island in a day, all at our own pace.

That evening, we enjoyed one more dinner by the beach before heading back to our room. Suz and I decided to rewatch the documentary about the Tham Luang cave rescue, having only just  visited the area in Chiang Rai where the boys’ football team and their coach were trapped in 2018. Having seen the region in person, the story felt even more real than it had before.

Our time on Koh Samet had been a welcome change from the busier sightseeing days earlier in the trip. Between beach dinners, fire shows, swimming and exploring the island by scooter, we’d finally had the chance to slow down and enjoy a few days by the sea. Next stop, Bangkok, for the final part of our Thailand adventure.

After a few great days exploring Chiang Mai, it was time to head further north to Chiang Rai. We’d arranged for a private driver to collect us from our hotel and take us on the journey, although I’d requested a minivan, we ended up with a SUV. Ah well, can’t win them all!

The drive between Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai isn’t particularly long, and we made good time to our first stop, a hot spring about an hour outside Chiang Mai. These hot springs are heated by geothermal activity beneath the ground, with hot mineral water rising to the surface. The area is very touristic however we just needed a quick bathroom stop and continued our journey north.

From here onwards, however, things became a little less enjoyable. It seemed like the roadworks would never end. For what felt like nearly 100 kilometres, we encountered one roadwork section after another, with traffic repeatedly being moved from one side of the road to the other and reduced to single-lane traffic at lower speeds. It was stop, start, slow down, wait, and repeat. At this rate, the roadworks will still be going when our kids have their own  kids! Eventually, after three hours, we arrived in Chiang Rai and headed straight to our first major attraction, Wat Rong Khun, better known as the White Temple.

Unlike many of Thailand’s older Buddhist temples, the White Temple is a relatively modern creation, by Thai artist Chalermchai Kositpipat and it’s a mix of traditional Buddhist symbolism and contemporary art. Almost everything is white, with countless small mirrored pieces reflecting the sunlight and making the buildings sparkle.

The approach is a tad unusual as you cross a bridge over a pit filled with sculpted hands reaching upwards. Once inside, the artwork becomes even stranger, with modern cultural references mixed in among Buddhist themes. It was fascinating, but also weird in places. There were so many unusual decorations and unexpected details that you never quite knew what you’d come across next (we saw references to Marvel Universe, DC and many more).

We spent a good amount of time wandering around and taking it all in before grabbing a quick lunch nearby and moving on to our next stop, Wat Rong Suea Ten, or the Blue Temple.

If the White Temple was all about white and silver, the Blue Temple went in the complete opposite direction. The temple is famous for its blue exterior, intricate gold detailing and colourful interior featuring an enormous white Buddha. The blue and gold decorations give it a completely different feel from the White Temple, and it was another impressive place to explore. We even spotted someone literally spray-painting some of the blue decoration!

After a busy afternoon visiting temples, we headed to our accommodation, The Heritage Chiang Rai Hotel and Convention. As soon as we pulled up and walked through the main doors, Eloise looked around and asked, in a rather impressed voice, “How much was the budget for this place?”

That probably tells you everything you need to know about the hotel! It was a lovely place, and after checking in we headed straight to the large swimming pool. Best of all, we had the entire pool to ourselves, which made it even better after a hot afternoon of sightseeing.

Later, we walked up the road for some massages. Suz went for a Thai massage, Eloise chose a foot massage and I opted for a back oil massage, while Xander decided he wasn’t interested. After a busy day, it was a pretty good way to unwind.

For dinner, we walked over to Central Chiangrai, a nearby shopping mall, where we decided to change things up and have Japanese food. After several days of northern Thai dishes, it was nice to eat something different. Mind you, I’d been having Khao Soi for lunch every day for the previous five days, so perhaps I was finally ready for a break!

The following morning our driver returned to collect us for a full-day tour of northern Thailand. Our first stop was Baan Dam Museum, also known as the Black House.

Created by Thai artist Thawan Duchanee, Baan Dam is a collection of dark buildings and artistic installations rather than a traditional temple. The buildings are mostly black, with a mixture of traditional northern Thai architectural styles and unusual artwork. Inside, you’ll find collections of animal bones, hides, horns, wood carvings and other objects (think phallic ones).

From there, we continued north to Tham Luang Cave, the cave system that became world-famous in 2018 when 12 boys from a local junior football team and their coach became trapped inside.

Standing at the entrance to the cave was a strange experience. It was a large, imposing opening in the mountainside, and knowing what had happened there made it feel quite eerie. Even more so because there was nobody else around when we visited. It was just the four of us, standing at the entrance and imagining what it must have been like for the boys and their families during those terrifying days.

Afterwards, we continued to the border town of Mae Sai, right at the northernmost edge of Thailand. Here we visited the Sky Walk at Wat Phra That Doi Wao, a temple complex overlooking the border between Thailand and Myanmar.

As soon as we arrived, it was obvious that this was going to be the purple temple. There was purple everywhere, from the decorations to the surrounding buildings, with Eloise announcing, “I guess this is the purple temple then?” She’s certainly developed a cheeky sense of humour that one…

The highlight was the glass-floored Sky Walk, which extends out over the hillside and gives visitors panoramic views across Mae Sai and towards Myanmar. Looking down through the glass adds a little extra excitement, particularly if you’re not particularly fond of heights. From up there, you can see how closely the two countries sit alongside one another, separated in this area by the Sai River and the surrounding border landscape.

We all made our way across the glass floor, although slippers generated little electric shocks whenever we touched one another. Naturally, this turned into a game of chasing each other around and trying to zap whoever was closest. I’m not sure the other visitors appreciated our scientific investigation into static electricity, but we certainly entertained ourselves!

After admiring the views, we grabbed a quick lunch nearby before continuing towards the Golden Triangle.

The Golden Triangle is the meeting point of Thailand, Laos and Myanmar, where the Ruak River flows into the Mekong. The region is historically famous for opium production and trafficking, which made it one of the world’s best-known areas associated with the opium trade. We stopped at a viewpoint where we could look out towards all three countries, which was quite remarkable when you consider how close together they are.

We also visited an opium museum to learn more about the history of the trade and its impact on the region. It was an interesting way to understand the area’s past, beyond just looking at the rivers and taking a few photos. After a cold drink (from 7Eleven of course) and a little more time exploring, we climbed back into the car for the drive to Chiang Rai.

All in all, we had a fantastic day exploring northern Thailand, taking in everything from contemporary art and the dramatic Tham Luang Cave to border views and the history of the Golden Triangle.

Once we returned to the hotel, and after some pool time, we headed out for dinner at a northern Thai restaurant for some final regional dishes. Afterwards, we made our way across to the Chiang Rai Night Bazaar.

Compared with the night markets in Chiang Mai, the Chiang Rai Night Bazaar felt much quieter and more relaxed. There was still plenty to look at, with stalls selling souvenirs, clothing, handicrafts and food, but we could wander around without feeling quite so swept along by the crowds. We enjoyed some dessert, had another massage and took our time exploring before eventually heading back to the hotel.

Our time in Chiang Rai was short but packed with experiences. We’d visited two of Thailand’s most unusual temples, explored the history of the Golden Triangle, stood at the entrance to the cave that had captured the world’s attention and crossed a glass bridge overlooking Myanmar. It was a great way to see a different side of northern Thailand.

Next up, we are heading south towards the coast and the island of Koh Samet. After all the temples, mountains and sightseeing, some island time sounds like the perfect way to relax!

About 30 minutes late, the plane finally landed and, in warp speed, we were on board and heading towards Bangkok, which would only take just over an hour. We had a very short turnaround for our connecting flight to Chiang Mai, and needed to get through immigration before catching this flight. We landed and thought we were doing pretty well on time, but then lightning decided to make an appearance, and apparently this means that the ground staff  can’t work, so we sat dead still on the tarmac for 30 minutes, stressing and just waiting to get off the plane. 

We got off eventually and rushed towards gate transfer to domestic flights and managed to get through immigration remarkably quickly and found our next gate — at the other end of the terminal, because of course. In the end, this flight was delayed as well, so all that running around was for nothing and we eventually boarded our plane and shortly after landed in Chiang Mai.

We grabbed a taxi, checked into out hotel, the Be Phrasingh Hotel and headed out for a quick meal nearby. This was where I had my first proper taste of Khao Soi, and I was immediately hooked. This is a northern Thai curry noodle dish, with egg noodles in a rich, spicy coconut curry sauce and topped with crispy fried noodles and some pickles. I had my first bowl, and decided that I had to try and compare a few of them throughout this trip. We finished the evening with a massage before heading back to the hotel for some sleep before our first proper day exploring the city!

The following morning was my birthday, so we started the day with a great breakfast at the Fern Forest Cafe, which is almost hidden away in a garden setting which was very relaxing! Being a birthday brekkie, we went all out and ordered a tropical fruit breakfast bowl, pancakes, bagels and cheese enchiladas, a weird mix but it was all delicious, specially when combined with one of the better coffees that I’ve ever had. It was a coffee with vanilla and cinnamon, which was delicious! I’ve heard good things about the coffee culture here, as it’s a major coffee-growing region, and if this is a taste of what’s to come, needless to say, I’m very happy!

After breakfast, it was now time to start exploring some temples and our first stop was Wat Phra Singh Woramahawihan, one of Chiang Mai’s most important Buddhist temples and famous for its Lanna-style architecture, intricate wooden details and the large golden chedi that dominates the complex.

From there we stopped at Akha Ama Phrasingh, a specialty coffee shop that works with hill-tribe coffee farmers in northern Thailand, helping them produce and sell their coffee while ensuring more of the value stays with the farming communities. I wasn’t about to pass up another coffee, so I ordered an iced espresso with honey and orange peel. It was very refreshing and, once again, a bloody good coffee.

We walked to our second temple of the day, Wat Chedi Luang. The enormous chedi here was originally one of the tallest structures in ancient Chiang Mai, although most of it was damaged by an earthquake in the 16th century. However, it’s still an impressive sight and must have been amazing when it was whole.

By this stage, however, Eloise (and Xander) had reached their own conclusion about the temples in Chiang Mai’s, stating: “They all look the same.” What can you do…

Anyway, we headed off towards Tha Phae Gate, one of the gates that forms part of the old city walls that once protected Chiang Mai. Nearby, we found a small craft pub called NAI-KAD, where I tried a few local beers, before we stopped for lunch, where of course I had another Khao Soi, which again was delicious!

Our third temple of the day was Wat Chiang Man, the oldest temple in Chiang Mai, founded 1296 by King Mangrai. The temple area contains beautiful Lanna-style buildings and several important Buddha images, and once again there was plenty to look at.

After a full day of temples, we grabbed a taxi back to the hotel, jumped into the pool and cooled down before heading out again in the afternoon. This time we headed to Nimman, one of Chiang Mai’s trendier neighbourhoods, known for its cafes, restaurants, shops, bars and nightlife. We first stopped at Sucking Stones Brewing to try some of their locally brewed beers before continuing to One Nimman, a shopping complex, with an almost Italian design. We strolled for a bit and then explored the food stalls where we had some dinner by grabbing little bits from different stalls, and finished with mango sticky rice. Because why not?

After a long day exploring Chiang Mai, we eventually made it back to the hotel where we called it a night.

The following morning we headed into the mountains to visit Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, one of Chiang Mai’s most famous temples. The temple sits high on Doi Suthep mountain overlooking the city and is one of the most important pilgrimage sites in northern Thailand. We had booked the trip with the same lady who had picked us up from the airport, as she’d been friendly and helpful, so we were happy to use her again. The drive up the mountain involved plenty of twists and turns as we climbed higher and higher. Once we arrived, we used the small lift/elevator service up towards the temple rather than tackling the famous staircase.

Wat Phra That Doi Suthep was, once again, beautiful. The temple is particularly famous for its golden chedi, which is said to contain relics of the Buddha. We also got some great views back towards Chiang Mai, although the air was a little hazy. Still, being high above the city with the mountains surrounding us was worth the trip.

From there we were dropped off at Wat Sri Suphan, better known as the Silver Temple. This temple is famous for its elaborate silver-coloured decoration and intricate metalwork covering much of the exterior. There was, however, a slight problem when we arrived. Suz and Eloise weren’t allowed inside the main temple because women are not permitted to enter. So Xander and I went inside while the girls waited outside. The interior was impressive, but to be honest, the exterior was the star of the show anyway.

Afterwards we walked across to Eight Days A Week Cool Muang, a local craft brewery, where I sampled a few of their beers. Chiang Mai has a growing craft beer scene, so I was quite happy with the number of opportunities I’d been getting to try locally brewed beers.

We then walked back towards the Old Town and stopped for lunch, where I had — you guessed it — another Khao Soi. At this point I was definitely starting to compare them. Every bowl had its own little differences in the curry, noodles and toppings, but I was still very happy to keep doing the research.

After another swim at the hotel to cool down, we headed to the Women’s Massage Centre. The centre provides massage training and employment opportunities for women who have previously been in gaol, giving them a way to develop skills and earn an income after leaving prison. It was a great experience and a good example of how something as simple as a massage can also support a worthwhile social initiative.

That evening we headed to the Saturday Night Market, where the streets were packed with food stalls, local crafts, clothes, artwork and all sorts of things we absolutely didn’t need but somehow ended up buying. Xander came away with an ocarina, a small wind instrument that is played by blowing through a mouthpiece and covering different finger holes to produce different notes. Eloise picked up some earrings and a leather-bound journal, while we also found something that was far too appropriate for us not to buy — a little 7-Eleven sign that lights up and plays music. Considering how often we seem to end up in 7-Eleven when travelling, it seemed like the perfect souvenir.

We finished the night with another swim in the pool before heading to bed. The following morning we had something completely different planned — a Thai cooking class.

At 8:30am we were picked up from the hotel and headed to Asia Scenic Thai Cooking School, where all four of us had booked into the class. Our guide and teacher, A, was fantastic from the the very start, A was friendly, knowledgeable and explained everything really well. Our first that morning was the local morning market, where A showed us the different fresh and dried ingredients used in Thai cooking and explained how they are used.

Once we reached the cooking school, we each chose the dishes we wanted to prepare and got stuck into the cooking. It was particularly fun watching Xander and Eloise make their own dishes and then seeing how impressed they were with their creations. They were both genuinely proud of what they’d cooked, and rightly so.

The class wasn’t just for adults either. The kids were included in all the activities and had just as much fun as we did. The only real problem was that we’d cooked so much food that, by the end, none of us had much room left to eat it all. If you’re doing the morning class, don’t bother with breakfast beforehand!

After the cooking class we returned to the hotel for a swim and some relaxation. In the late afternoon we headed out again, this time to Chit Hole Brewing, another local craft brewery. After sampling some of their beers, we returned to town and wandered through the Sunday Night Market. We found some food, although we didn’t eat anywhere near as much as usual because we were still completely stuffed from the cooking class earlier in the day. We wandered around the market for a while before eventually heading back to the hotel for our final night in Chiang Mai.

We’ve really enjoyed our time here. The Old Town and its impressive temples, the night markets packed with food and interesting things to buy, the craft beer scene and, most importantly for me, the ridiculously good coffee have all made Chiang Mai a great stop on our trip.

And then there was the Khao Soi. I definitely wasn’t expecting to eat quite so much of it, but by the time we left Chiang Mai I was more than happy with the amount of research I’d managed to conduct.

Until next time, Chiang Mai, for now, bring on Chiang Rai!

We left Vang Vieng on the 16:30 train, and just 50 minutes later we arrived into Luang Prabang, These trains really are efficient and have completely changed getting around Laos, cutting what used to be around a six-hour bus journey down to less than an hour.

After arriving, we jumped into a taxi into town and headed to our hotel, Villa Oasis, which turned out to be a lovely little place to stay, with two interconnected rooms, giving us plenty of space for the four of us. After checking in, we wandered around the corner to an obstetrician as one of the nose pads to my glasses had fallen off and needed replacement. As they were looking to fix this one, the other one wasn’t able to be replaced at the time (as I previously fixed it myself with super glue) and I was told to return the following morning, it was not a very comfortable fit, but what do you do!

We headed out to explore the famous Luang Prabang night market where we could find something to eat. The night market stretches through the centre of the Old Town, with stalls selling everything from handmade crafts and clothing to souvenirs, artwork and plenty of local food. We wandered around, grabbed some food from a few different vendors, grabbed some drinks and sat down and enjoyed them. We eventually made our way back to the hotel, tired after a very early morning start for the balloon ride in Vang Vieng, and we were ready for bed.

Our second day started a little more slowly. I headed out to the optometrist again and they fixed my glasses this time. I returned to the hotel, we had some brekkie and then jumped into a tuk-tuk, ready to explore Luang Prabang’s Old Town.

Luang Prabang is a UNESCO World Heritage-listed town and is famous for its combination of traditional Lao architecture, Buddhist temples and French colonial buildings. The streets of the Old Town are beautiful, with low-rise buildings, colourful shutters, little cafes, bakeries and temples around every corner. We didn’t really have a plan, we just walked around, seeing where the streets took us.

We started with a temple tour of the Wat Xieng Thong, the main temple to explore in Luang Prabang, built in the 16th century, it’s known for its multi-tiered roof and intricate decorations, and was every bit as impressive as we’d hoped. From there we continued to Wat Sibounheuang, another of the many Buddhist temples found throughout Old Town, and also beautifully decorated and very peaceful.

We eventually made our way down towards the Mekong River, where we got some tickets for a sunset cruise, before we sat down along overlooking the river with some fruit shakes and an iced coffee. It was a hot day, so sitting in the shade watching the boats slowly make their way along the Mekong was a pretty good way to relax and enjoy our drinks.

We returned to the hotel via a lovely bakery, picking up some baked goods for lunch before spending some time relaxing, eating and enjoying the hotel pool. Eventually it was time to head back to the river for our sunset cruise.

We had originally considered one of the larger boats, but as we made our way to their pier, we were approached about joining a smaller traditional boat instead. Realising that we’d get pretty much the same views from the river, we decided to give it a go. Once we climbed aboard and headed out onto the Mekong, we quickly realised we’d made the right decision as it felt right being on the river in a traditional longboat with only a handful of people aboard. 

We spent around 90 minutes cruising along the Mekong, although the time flew by as we slowly travelled along the river, watching the sun set along the mountains.

Once back on land, we grabbed some dinner before wandering through the night markets again, picking up a few souvenirs along the way. We then headed back to the hotel for what we hoped would be an early night, because the following morning involved another 5am wake-up.

This time we were heading back into the Old Town, to Sakkaline Road to witness the famous Luang Prabang alms ceremony. The alms ceremony, known locally as Tak Bat, is a daily Buddhist tradition where monks walk through the streets in silence at sunrise while local residents offer them food, traditionally sticky rice. The offerings provide food for the monks, who live as per Buddhist traditions, and the act of giving is considered an expression of generosity.

At 5am we walked in front of our hotel and booked a rideshare taxi, whilst we waited we also saw a small progression of monks walking in front of us, and observed just a handful of people giving them food. Once we made our way to Wat Sensoukharam, along Sakkaline Road, we saw large groups of Chinese tourists sitting on little stools, ready to hand rice to the passing monks. It was certainly a very different atmosphere from the peaceful image we’d expected and had observed earlier in front of our hotel.

I decided to walk a little further away from the main crowd and, once the groups started to clear, the experience became much more serene. Watching the monks quietly walk along the street as the sun came up was a memorable experience, and it was interesting to see this long-standing tradition taking place as part of everyday life in Luang Prabang.

Afterwards we wandered through the morning food markets, which were already buzzing with activity. There was an incredible variety of fresh produce on display, and I grabbed some coconut pancakes for a little snack on my way back to the hotel.

After breakfast we jumped into our arranged van and headed out to Kuang Si Waterfalls. Once we arrived, paid the entrance fee and jumped on an electric buggy for the short ride towards the entrance. Walking to the falls, we passed through the Tat Kuang Si Bear Rescue Centre, where we were able to see some Asiatic black bears. Most of them seemed completely uninterested in us, sprawled out on their backs and sleeping, but I suppose if you’ve got a comfortable place to sleep and don’t have to worry about anything else, why wouldn’t you?

Eventually we reached the waterfalls. The lower pools lead you gradually towards the main falls, with their famous turquoise-blue water cascading over the limestone terraces. The colour of the water comes from minerals in the surrounding limestone, creating the blue-green pools that Kuang Si is famous for. The whole area, with the surrounding jungle, was beautiful.

We found a cafe overlooking the falls and sat down with a cold drink, taking in the view and enjoying a bit of a break. After the early start, it was nice to simply sit down and do absolutely nothing for a while.

On the way back to Luang Prabang, our driver made a quick stop at a buffalo farm, where we were given the chance to try buffalo milk ice cream. Suz went for vanilla and Eloise chose chocolate. Both were ok, although neither of us came away thinking we’d suddenly discovered the next big ice cream craze.

Back in town we had a great lunch before Xander, Eloise and I headed off to a cat cafe. I waited downstairs with an iced coffee while they enjoyed some quality time with the cats. Once they were all “cat out”, we headed back to the hotel.

I decided (and no one wanted to come with me) that I wanted to tackle one more attraction and headed out to climb Mount Phousi. This climb only involves about 300 steps to reach the top, but after everything we’d already done that morning, and with the heat, it was tougher than expected. In the end, I got to see some fantastic views across the town, the Mekong and the surrounding countryside, just as the sun was beginning to settle. After enjoying the views, I headed back down, returned to the hotel and jumped straight into the pool.

Later we headed out for another massage before Xander, Eloise and I grabbed a quick dinner. Suz unfortunately wasn’t feeling too well, with something she’d eaten not quite agreeing with her, so she stayed back at the hotel while the three of us went out.

Our final day in Luang Prabang was a slow one, after breakfast, we just got back to our room to rest and pack as we were leaving that afternoon on a 15.00 flight. And after several early mornings, long days, temples, waterfalls, caves, mountains and even a hot air balloon ride, a quiet morning doing absolutely nothing was probably exactly what we needed.

Luang Prabang was a fantastic final stop in Laos and offered so much, from just walking along the beautiful Old Town and exploring its temples, to cruising the Mekong at sunset, witnessing the alms ceremony, swimming around Kuang Si Falls and climbing Mount Phousi, there certainly was enough to keep you occupied, and was a great way to finish our time in Laos before heading off to our next adventure, Chiang Mai and Thailand!

The train to Vang Vieng was surprisingly easy, after going through a security check, we grabbed some snacks, boarded our train, which passed through rice fields and rolling hills, until 50 minutes later we had arrived in Vang Vieng. The best part of the journey was actually the last 5-10 minutes or so, as we got closer to Vang Vieng, the landscape completely changed and these massive limestone mountains appeared in the distance.

These mountains are actually the main attraction of Vang Vieng. They are steep cliffs, almost rising vertically from the countryside and are covered with thick green vegetation. They looked amazing and we were ready to start exploring them.

At the station we jumped into a minibus to take us to our hotel, the Sky Hotel. It cost us 40,000 kip each, which worked out at roughly $3 AUD per person, it could have possibly been slightly cheaper with a taxi but I couldn’t be bothered waiting for one when these minivans were already leaving. Once at our hotel, the Sky Hotel, we checked in and headed out to find some lunch. Now, although we ordered all meals at the same time, Suz and I were fed first and then, once we’d finished, the kids got their meals. Probably not the greatest place when you’re travelling with hungry teenagers (well almost two of them), but eventually everyone got fed.

Back at the hotel, we organised a tuk-tuk for the afternoon and headed off towards Nam Xay Viewpoint. Xander and I jumped out to do the climb while Suz and Eloise continued onwards to Blue Lagoon 1. The climb up Nam Xay is only around 150 metres in elevation, but don’t let that number fool you as it might be a short hike, but it’s a brutally steep climb. In the heat and humidity, it felt way longer than “just” 150 metres!

The climb was exhausting, hot and, in places, quite slippery, with plenty of sharp rocks to negotiate. By the time Xander and I finally reached the top, we were both questioning some of our life choices (well, at least I was, Xander was just skipping ahead). Thankfully, the views made every step worthwhile. From the summit, we got incredible panoramic views over the Vang Vieng valley, with its rice fields, winding roads, little villages and those enormous limestone mountains stretching out in every direction.

And then there were the motorcycles. Right at the top, there are two motorbikes that have been placed for visitors to get that obligatory Instagram photo. Naturally, there was absolutely no way Xander and I were climbing all that way and not taking a photo (so after having to wait for some Russians that were taking a million photos of each other, we finally got ours as well).

The journey back down was easier than going up, but it was still long and tiring. Once we reached the bottom, we found our tuk-tuk driver and headed to Blue Lagoon 1, where we met up with Suz and Eloise and jumped into the cool lagoon water which was very refreshing and just what we needed. We spent some time swimming and cooling off before heading back into town.

That evening we decided to treat ourselves to some massages, yes all of us got a 60min foot and back massage, which cost us a total of 480,000 kip, about $40 AUD in total for all four, what a bargain, we will have to do these more times. After spending the day climbing mountains and swimming in lagoons, the massage definitely hit the spot. 

We finished the night with a simple Chinese dinner surrounded by locals before taking a short walk back to the hotel. It was an early night because the alarm was set at 4:30am (ridiculous) the following morning. But we had to get up early, as it was hot air balloon ride time.

The 4:30am alarm came around far way too quickly, after turning the alarm off, I checked my messages to make sure the balloon ride hadn’t been cancelled yes. We’d had heavy rain overnight, which is normal for this time of year as the rainy season is coming to an end, but I looked outside and couldn’t see rain so we were in with a chance.

At exactly 5:00am, our minivan arrived to collect us. We were handed cards marked “Bumblebee”, which showed the balloon that we we’d been assigned to, and after a few more stops to collect additional passengers, we arrived at the Above Laos area. Here we were served coffee whilst given a safety briefing. The weather was still being monitored, and we were told that if conditions weren’t suitable we’d either have to wait, rebook or receive a refund. We were also told we might have to wait until around 8:00am to find out what was happening, so we settled in and waited. Then, around 6:30am, we saw as the balloon baskets appeared, the huge balloons began to inflate and suddenly this was actually happening and not long after this, we were airborne!

It’s difficult to describe the feeling of being in a hot air balloon. There’s no engine roaring, no sudden acceleration and no real sensation of movement. Instead, you simply rise quietly into the sky, carried by the wind, with the mountains of Vang Vieng stretching out below you. At some point I checked the height indicator which said 3,000 feet, which is not far from 1000 metres in the air. As a balloon can’t just be steered, we flew where the wind wanted us to go and as we went higher, the landscape became even more spectacular, with clouds and mist drifting around the limestone peaks and the patchwork of rice fields far below.

Around 45 minutes after taking off, our pilot started descending and we were almost floating above a large rice field, before we were able to be guided safely to the ground by ground staff that by this stage had been given ropes and were guiding us in to a safe spot.  Safely back on the ground, we were still buzzing from the experience, as for both Suz and I, this was a genuine bucket-list item, and being able to do it surrounded by the incredible scenery of Vang Vieng was just amazing. As luck would have it, just as we had touched down safely, the rain started falling all around us, talk about good timing!

Back at the main airfield, we were treated to breakfast, champagne and certificates showing that we’d taken part in the balloon flight. After returning to the hotel, we relaxed for a while before heading out again to Tham Chang Cave. Getting to the cave involved climbing a steep set of 147 steps before entering the cave itself. After the climb of Nam Xay the previous day, the steps weren’t exactly what I was looking for, but once we made it inside the cave it was worth it (and it also protected us from the rain that had arrived again). Whilst it was wet and miserable outside, the inside of the cave was cool and dry, and at times it felt like we had the entire place to ourselves.

After the cave we returned to town, grabbed some lunch and then spent some time relaxing around the hotel pool before it was time to head to the train station again, the time had come for us to leave for our final destination in Laos, Luang Prabang.

Later on we boarded our late evening flight to Singapore, leaving Melbourne at around 9:30pm and landed in Singapore at about 3:00am, giving us a six-hour layover before our final flight. Unfortunately, all the airport lounges and sleeping areas were already full at that time of the morning, so we wandered between terminals looking for somewhere to rest and eventually found a quiet corner where we could lie down for a few hours (and I even got some sleep).

Around 6am we finally got ourselves moving again and grabbed some breakfast, including Hainanese chicken and a traditional Singapore kopi (a strong, rich local coffee, served with condensed milk, just what I needed after a few hours of next to no sleep. We then managed to find a hidden corner with comfortable seats which overlooked the terminal and aircraft where we waited and finally got onto our airplane.

After a slight delay where some passengers didn’t turn up and their luggage had to be offloaded, we landed at Vientiane Airport about 2 hours and 40 min later, breezed through immigration with our eVisas and were soon outside, where we stopped at an ATM to get some local currency and become millionaires, although unfortunately being a millionaire in Laos doesn’t quite mean the same as it does in Australia.

We also managed to pick up a local SIM card for Xander, as his phone doesn’t support eSIM. For about $4 AUD he got seven days of data, and it actually turned out to be a great option as his connection was super fast, whilst the Airalo eSim we had was some of the worst I’ve come across (for future reference, do not use Airalo in Laos).

[See image gallery at travellingmedinas.com]

Getting from the airport, I used LOCA app, pretty much Laos’ version of Uber. What arrived to collect us was a nice electric car. Actually, every taxi ride we took through the LOCA app in Vientianne was an EV, and we quickly noticed the vast amount of EV cars (and fast charging stations) everywhere. Coming from Australia, we were impressed and, to be honest, felt like we are the third world nation and way behind the times considering how normal EVs are around here.

We arrived at our hotel, the Mintra Hotel and checked into our interconnecting rooms. The rooms were comfortable, the beds were nice and plush, and after such a long journey, we were really looking forward to sleep in them. However, no time for that, we headed outside and found our first restaurant for some Lao lunch. The kids grabbed mango and watermelon shakes while Suz and I ordered our first Beer Lao’s (the first of many more to come).

After lunch we organised a tuk-tuk and headed towards Patuxai, one of Vientiane’s most famous landmarks, which is also called the Victory Gate. Patuxai is a huge monument inspired by the Arc de Triomphe in Paris, although with traditional Lao architectural details. We climbed the stairs to the top and enjoyed some great views over town.

From there we wandered through Talat Sao, one of the city’s many markets, before Suz and the kids decided it was time to head back to the hotel for some swimming in the pool. I decided to keep going, flagged down a TukTuk, and made my way over to Pha That Luang, a large golden stupa which is one of the most important national and religious symbols in Laos. The site was impressive, with the enormous golden structure standing out against the surrounding buildings.

[See image gallery at travellingmedinas.com]

I eventually returned to the hotel where we all spent some time relaxing in the pool, where I enjoyed a cold beer. Then the rain arrived and we enjoyed some time in the water, whilst the rain poured over us.

We had originally planned to visit the night markets along the Mekong River, however due to the rain, we changed our plans and headed to Wanwan Food Park Center Point instead. Here we just sat down at a local restaurant, on plastic chairs, and ordered from a menu that had no English translations and, even more importantly, no prices. We hoped for the best and choose dishes based on the photos showed and hoped for the best. We ordered some pork larb, fried rice and morning glory with everything being delicious, however the food was definitely on the spicy side and a too much for the kids (and Suz).

After dinner we wandered around the markets, picking up a few snacks along the way before finally returning to the hotel. It had been a very long day, starting with the drive to Melbourne, the flight to Singapore, a six-hour layover, another flight to Laos and then a full afternoon and evening exploring Vientiane. By the time we got back to the hotel, we were more than ready for bed.

[See image gallery at travellingmedinas.com]

One thing that really stood out during our time in Vientiane was the city itself, there are some large and impressive buildings throughout the city, some incredibly modern while others incorporate traditional Lao architecture. We were genuinely impressed over their scale and design.

The next morning we grabbed some croissants and a few other things for breakfast and headed towards the train station. Along the way we passed even more of Vientiane’s impressive buildings, before arriving at the station itself.

And speaking of impressive buildings, the Vientiane railway station is absolutely massive. It feels more like an airport terminal than a train station, with a huge modern structure that really stands out from the surrounding area. After going through security and grabbing some snacks for the journey, we made our way onto the platform and boarded our train towards our next stop in Laos, Vang Vieng!

[See image gallery at travellingmedinas.com]

After an early start with a 4:30am wake-up, we said goodbye to Sri Lanka and made our way to the airport for the next part of our journey. Our little friend the dog, even wandered over to say good morning and farewell (and I even let it into the kids room to get Eloise out of bed). From Colombo we took a short 1.5-hour flight and landed at Velana International Airport in Male, the main gateway to the Maldives.

After landing we had about two hours before our speedboat, so we  withdrew some local cash from an ATM and tried to exchange our remaining Sri Lankan rupees. Unfortunately none of the official exchange counters would accept them, so we ended up swapping a small amount with one of the many people offering exchanges in the arrivals hall. It wasn’t a large sum, so we were happy just to convert it into Maldivian rufiyaa, the local currency used on the islands and whilst the rate was terrible, it was better than just carrying around the $80 or so equivalent that I had in Sri Lankan rupees.

Eventually it was time to board our speedboat transfer and after all passengers were onboard, we pulled away and sped across the open water. The ride itself was a bit dramatic at times as we travelled through patches of rain and rough seas, but about 90 minutes later we arrived at our destination, the island of Dhigurah.

As soon as we arrived we were greeted by staff from our hotel, TME Retreats Dhigurah, who loaded our luggage onto small electric golf buggies and drove us through the sandy streets to the hotel. After a refreshing cold towel and welcome drink we checked in and headed out for some lunch before walking down to the beach.

One thing that quickly became apparent is that Dhigurah is a local island, meaning there are certain rules visitors need to follow. The Maldives is a Muslim country and alcohol isn’t permitted on local islands, only on private resort islands. Beaches are also divided into regular public areas and designated “bikini beaches” where tourists can swim in regular swimwear. Once we reached the bikini beach area though, we finally stepped into the water and had our first proper swim in the Maldives. The water was warm, crystal clear and every bit as beautiful as we had imagined.

Later in the afternoon we returned to the room and washed a few items of clothing by hand. We had used laundry services throughout Sri Lanka, but here the hotel charged about $1 per item, which would quickly add up for four people. After our quick washing session we headed out to explore the island, wandering along sandy streets lined with palm trees and small guesthouses.

[See image gallery at travellingmedinas.com]

Along the way we passed small shops selling souvenirs and local snacks before eventually finding ourselves back at the beach just in time for sunset. The colours over the Indian Ocean were incredible and it was the perfect way to end our first day in the Maldives.

That evening we enjoyed dinner at the hotel where I tried a traditional Maldivian dish called Garudhiya. The dish is made with tuna cooked in a clear broth with salt, lime and chilli, usually served with rice, onion, chilli and lime on the side. It was simple but incredibly tasty and quickly became my favourite meal during our stay. We finished dinner with some locally made coconut ice cream before heading back to the room for an early night.

The next morning started with another early pickup, this time I was heading off for some diving with Dhigurah Island Divers. After heading out by boat for about 25 minutes we reached our first dive site, Noo Giri. This site is a coral pinnacle rising from deeper water and we began the dive at around 25 metres before gradually working our way upward around the reef.

[See image gallery at travellingmedinas.com]

Almost immediately we were surrounded by tropical fish including parrotfish, angelfish, clownfish, along with starfish scattered across the reef and so many more. Towards the end of the dive we were also lucky enough to come across a large sea turtle which calmly continued feeding while we floated nearby watching.

After a short break on the boat we headed to our second dive site, Kuda Rah Thila, often nicknamed “Turtle Point”. Like the first dive, the reef was full of colourful marine life and once again we were lucky enough to see another turtle during the dive. Both dives had excellent visibility and it was an incredible experience to finally tick off diving in the Maldives from my bucket list.

Back on land we met up again for a light lunch before renting bicycles for the afternoon. Dhigurah is perfect for cycling and we rode all the way down to the southern tip of the island where a long sandbank stretches far into the ocean. At first the weather looked a bit questionable as dark clouds rolled in and a short burst of rain passed through, but soon afterwards the sky cleared and we were left with amazing views across shallow turquoise water stretching in every direction.

[See image gallery at travellingmedinas.com]

The following morning we had another early start, this time a snorkelling trip for Xander, Eloise and I, in search of manta rays. Once again we headed out with Dhigurah Island Divers, although the boat ride that morning was a little rougher with some fairly large waves making the trip out a bit uncomfortable.

Luckily, the moment we entered the water made it completely worthwhile. Almost immediately we spotted our first manta ray gliding gracefully through the water. It had been years since I’d seen one in the wild and it was the first time for the kids. Watching these giant rays swim effortlessly through the ocean is always an incredible experience.

Within minutes however, several other boats arrived and the area became quite crowded with both snorkellers and divers. It quickly became difficult to keep track of everyone in the water, so we all returned to the boat. Then whilst Xander and Eloise stayed on the boat, I was dropped a little further away from the crowds where I found a few more manta rays and enjoyed a quieter swim before we continued on to another shallow reef area where we spotted a turtle along with plenty of colourful reef fish.

[See image gallery at travellingmedinas.com]

After returning to the island we spent the afternoon taking things a little easier. Suz headed to the beach to relax while the rest of us enjoyed a slower afternoon.

Later that evening we found one of the small beach cafés where we ordered mojitos and watched the sunset over the Indian Ocean. Of course, the mojitos were alcohol-free as again, alcohol isn’t permitted on local islands in the Maldives. Resorts operate differently and serve alcohol normally, but islands like Dhigurah follow local cultural rules.

Either way, it turned out to be the perfect final evening on the island.

After sunset we headed back for dinner where I once again ordered Garudhiya, still my favourite dish of the trip, before returning to the room for a relaxing final night in the Maldives as tomorrow we would be heading home, bringing an incredible journey through Sri Lanka and the Maldives to an end.

[See image gallery at travellingmedinas.com]

On our final morning on Dhigurah, Suz and I made the most of our last few hours by heading down to the beach for one final swim. The water was that same incredible clear turquoise that makes the Maldives so famous, calm and warm as we floated around soaking in the moment. Meanwhile, Xander and Eloise decided to relax back in the room and enjoy a slower start to the morning.

After returning to the hotel we packed up our bags, checked out of TME Retreats Dhigurah, and made our way back to the harbour. From there we boarded the speedboat for the journey back to Velana International Airport.

It had been a long trip and we were definitely tired by this stage, but also incredibly happy. Visiting the Maldives had been one of our dream destinations for years, and finally experiencing its beautiful islands, reefs and marine life made it a perfect ending to an unforgettable holiday.

[See image gallery at travellingmedinas.com]

After leaving Kandy, we began our journey towards Sigiriya. The drive initially involved navigating quite a bit of traffic, not only within Kandy itself but also in the smaller towns and villages along the way. As it turned out, we were travelling just before the Sinhala and Tamil New Year, one of the biggest celebrations in Sri Lanka. People were everywhere, shopping for food, clothes, decorations and sweets in preparation for the holiday. The closer we got to the smaller towns, the more lively the streets became, with markets packed full of people getting ready for several days of celebrations with family and friends.

Our first stop of the day came about two hours later at the impressive Dambulla Cave Temple, also known as the Golden Temple of Dambulla. The temple complex sits high on a large rock formation and reaching it requires climbing roughly 300 steps. Unfortunately for us, we were doing this in the middle of the day when the heat was at its strongest. After making the climb and reusing the sarongs we had purchased the previous day in Kandy, we entered the caves and explored the temple complex. Inside are several cave temples filled with statues and murals of the Buddha, with over 150 statues spread across five caves that date back more than 2,000 years. After spending some time exploring and taking in the impressive artwork and statues, we made our way back down the hill, passing plenty of monkeys along the path before finally reaching our driver waiting for us at the bottom.

After a quick lunch stop we continued the drive towards Sigiriya and arrived at our originally booked accommodation. As usual the hotel staff grabbed our bags and started taking them towards the room, but when they reached the door they suddenly seemed confused. There were shoes sitting outside the room and it quickly became clear that something wasn’t quite right. They tried to show us a different room but that one only had two beds instead of the three we had booked. After a bit of discussion they even attempted to offer a larger room, but again it only had two beds. In the end we decided to cancel the booking entirely. We called our driver back and simply asked him to take us to another hotel so we could check availability ourselves.

After some quick online searching we came upon a hotel nearby, the Lion See Hotel which luckily had a room available with three beds (and slightly cheaper than the original one). We checked the room, accepted it straight away and checked in. It didn’t take long before we were all in the swimming pool cooling off after the hot day. That evening we walked along a small, dark path to a nearby restaurant for dinner before returning to the hotel. Getting to sleep that night turned out to be slightly challenging though, as loud music, celebrations and fireworks were going off at a nearby house, most likely part of the upcoming New Year celebrations.

[See image gallery at travellingmedinas.com]

The next morning we had an early start. Before breakfast, Xander, Eloise and I headed off to climb Sigiriya Rock Fortress. Suz decided to stay behind at the hotel as she was still feeling a bit under the weather and the climb from the previous day had convinced her that another big hike probably wasn’t the best idea.

Sigiriya, often referred to as Lion Rock, rises about 200 metres above the surrounding jungle and was once the site of an ancient royal palace built by King Kashyapa in the 5th century. Today it’s one of Sri Lanka’s most famous UNESCO World Heritage sites and one of the country’s most recognisable landmarks.

The climb to the top involves roughly 1,200 to 1,300 steps and although it’s not easy, the reward at the top makes the effort completely worthwhile. Along the way you pass impressive rock walls, narrow staircases and the famous Lion’s Gate, where two enormous stone lion paws guard the entrance to the final staircase. Once we reached the summit we were able to walk around the ruins of the ancient palace complex, including foundations, terraces and water reservoirs, all while enjoying incredible views across the surrounding jungle and countryside.

[See image gallery at travellingmedinas.com]

After making our way back down we returned to the hotel hot and sweaty, only to discover that the air conditioning in our room wasn’t working due to some electrical problems. A quick cold shower fixed that problem temporarily however the heat quickly returned though, so after breakfast we quickly checked out and were on our way.

As we were finishing our breakfast, our driver Sumeera approached us with a small surprise. He handed us a framed photo of all of us together from earlier in the trip, which was a very thoughtful gift and a great souvenir from our time travelling around Sri Lanka with him.

After checking out, we joined a Sigiriya Village Tour which gave us a glimpse into traditional rural life in the area. The tour started with a ride in a wooden bullock cart through the countryside before we transferred onto a tractor for the next section of the journey. After that we took a small boat ride across a lake before arriving at a village home where local residents showed us how traditional Sri Lankan dishes are prepared. We were even invited to help with the cooking before sitting down to eat the meal ourselves. There was no cutlery provided though, which meant we had to eat the traditional way using our right hand to mix the rice and curry together. The tour was very gimmicky and touristy, however we still enjoyed it and it was nice to have a bit of a cooking class whilst in Sri Lanka as well!

[See image gallery at travellingmedinas.com]

After the tour we were all incredibly hot and sweaty, so getting back into the air-conditioned car for the long drive towards our final hotel felt very welcome. By early afternoon we arrived at our final accommodation in Sri Lanka, the Dinu Lanka Resort.

Here we said goodbye to Sumeera who had been driving us and guiding us across the country for the past week. He had helped us navigate the language barrier, taken us to amazing places and generally made the entire journey incredibly smooth. We would happily recommend him to anyone travelling around Sri Lanka and can pass on his WhatsApp number if anyone is interested!

After checking in at the resort we were immediately welcomed with fresh lime juice and a selection of traditional Sri Lankan sweets and snacks while chatting with the owner about her life and experiences. With most shops closed due to the New Year holidays, we ended up walking to a small supermarket to buy some noodles and snacks for our final dinner in Sri Lanka. After returning to the hotel we packed our bags and tried to get some rest before our alarm went off very early the next morning.

Our wake-up call was set for 4:30am, as our flight was leaving at 7:20am for the next destination on our journey.

The Maldives…

[See image gallery at travellingmedinas.com]

After leaving Udawalawe, the drive took us through several small villages with fairly straight roads, but before long the scenery started changing. Mountains began appearing in the distance and soon enough we found ourselves driving along winding roads as we slowly climbed higher into Sri Lanka’s hill country.

Not long before reaching Ella we stopped at Ravana Falls, one of the widest waterfalls in the country. The waterfall cascades down a rocky cliff face beside the main road and is believed in local legend to be connected to the ancient story of King Ravana from the Ramayana epic. There were plenty of monkeys around the area, thankfully they all seemed fairly relaxed and didn’t attempt to steal food or get too close (I’m looking at you Gibraltar).

Shortly afterwards we arrived in Ella town, where we first stopped at the railway station to confirm our train tickets for our travel in two days time. After that we grabbed a quick lunch at a restaurant called Chill Cafe and after lunch we drove towards our accommodation, 9 Arch View Rest Inn.

The hotel sits just outside town and as we approached, the roads became smaller and steep and they were simply too narrow for our driver’s van to continue. With our driver’s help, we called the owner who soon arrived in his tuk-tuk and loaded both us and our luggage in for the final 500 metres. I did offer to walk, but he insisted on driving us.

When we arrived and stepped onto the balcony, the view immediately made the effort worthwhile. Right in front of us was Nine Arch Bridge, one of Sri Lanka’s most famous landmarks.

Right after checking in, Xander, Eloise and I decided to walk down to the bridge itself. We wandered across the railway tracks and stood on the bridge just as a train slowly rolled across, which was a pretty cool experience.

That evening we asked the owner if he could drive us back into town for dinner. On the way there the sky suddenly opened up and rain started pouring down so heavily that it became difficult to even see the road. We ended up standing under an awning in town trying to stay dry before eventually deciding to just run across the street back to Chills, since we already knew the food was good.

[See image gallery at travellingmedinas.com]

During dinner the rain stopped again and once we finished we simply messaged the hotel owner on WhatsApp who within minutes arrived to collect us and drove us back to the hotel, best service ever!

The next morning we enjoyed breakfast on the balcony overlooking the Nine Arch Bridge, which was a pretty incredible way to start the day. After breakfast we decided to hike Little Adam’s Peak. Suz wasn’t feeling the best so she stayed behind while the kids and I set off.

On the way there we passed Flying Ravana Adventure Park, where Xander and Eloise decided to try the zipline which they loved. After that the kids convinced me to take the Little Adam’s Peak Skywalk, which is a metal walkway and staircase route that climbs the final section of the hill. While the views were fantastic, it was definitely a tougher climb than simply walking up regular steps and I definitely regretted my choice a few times along the way.

We finally reached the end of the walkway and there was only a short hike from there to the summit where we could enjoy some amazing views across the surrounding hills and tea plantations.

[See image gallery at travellingmedinas.com]

Later we met Suz for lunch and that afternoon, the hotel owner drove us in his tuk-tuk to Halpewatte Tea Factory where we joined the plantation tour. We learnt that Sri Lanka’s tea industry dates back to the 1860s when James Taylor introduced commercial tea cultivation to the island. Before that, Sri Lanka was mainly known for coffee production until a plant disease destroyed the coffee crops. We also learned what tea comes from what leaves and then also got to dress with a traditional tea pickers basket to try hand-picking tea leaves ourselves (which we only did for a short time before we got tired).

Afterwards we returned inside the factory for a tea tasting where we sampled several different varieties, with this being the first time Xander and Eloise had ever sampled tea.

The next morning it was time for us to catch one of the most famous train journeys in the world. We got ready to board the train from Ella, as our driver Sumeera took our luggage with him in the car and drove ahead to meet us.

Normally this train runs all the way to Kandy, however due to severe flooding and storm damage from last years typhoon, parts of the railway line are damaged with nil trains running that part of the route. So, we opted to ride the train for around two hours to Ambewela.

[See image gallery at travellingmedinas.com]

The train ride through Sri Lanka’s hill country is often ranked among the most scenic rail journeys in the world as it provides some incredible views across the tea plantations and mountains. This train is normally packed however we felt the train was far quieter than normal and after a couple of stops we basically only had to share the entire 2nd class reserved carriage with another family.

Once in Ambewela, we met up with Sumeera again and continued our drive towards Kandy. We drove past vasts tea plantations near Nuwara Eliya and drove along some very windy roads as we descended from the mountains. On the way, we had a quick stop near Ramboda Falls for lunch and later also a quick stop in the small town of Pussellawa to buy some snacks. Walking along the street here we were definitely the only foreigners here and even Eloise noticed it as she said: “we definitely stand out here.”

Eventually we arrived at our hotel, Kandy City View Hotel where after checking in, we headed out to visit Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic, also known as Sri Dalada Maligawa. This temple houses what Buddhists believe to be a tooth relic of the Buddha and is one of the most important religious sites in Sri Lanka.

[See image gallery at travellingmedinas.com]

Before entering we were stopped and told that our legs needed to be covered. Suz, Eloise and Xander quickly bought sarong-style coverings for about 500 rupees each (I just had to ensure my shorts we pulled down enough to cover my knees) and we were allowed to enter.

Inside the temple, we walked through a series of halls where people come to pray and offer flowers. The sacred relic itself is hidden away and only taken out during special ceremonies.

After exploring the temple we returned to the hotel where there was a rooftop restaurant with a stone-baked pizza oven, which after such a long travel day, pizza sounded perfect.

We enjoyed dinner on the rooftop before finally heading to bed, ready for another day  in Sri Lanka with Sigiriya being next on our itinerary.

[See image gallery at travellingmedinas.com]