The Beauty of the Similan Islands!
The Similan Islands, a group of islands in the Andaman Sea about 10-12 km from the mainland, can be reached by fast boat in about an hour which is normally a very bumpy ride, or with our boat, which runs at a slow pace and reaches them in just under 4 hours. Each tour is looked after by one guide and four locals; one captain, a boat-boy, a cook and a helper. On my first boat tour, which occurred early in the season, we only had five guests onboard. I was there to observe and learn, and there was another guide with us, Alex.
Our normal itinerary for the Similan Islands, with minor adjustments due to weather conditions, usually started the same, we make our way to the Thap Lamu Pier where I and the group I’ll be leading, embark our boat, the ‘Duangta’. The other staff members ensured that all essential supplies were loaded. I ensured that I brought snorkelling gear, and extra equipment. As the boat left the pier, I conducted a briefing with all the guests, outlining what to expect and ensure the importance of seeing and not touching anything underwater to prevent injuries. A few hours later, we would arrive at Koh Bon (island 10) around midday, then Koh Similan (island 8) where we spend out first night. The following day, we made our way along the islands until we reached Ko Miang (island 4), where we spend out second night. Finally, on the last day we visited Ko Huyong (island 1) to see the baby turtles before heading back to the mainland.
Upon arrival to the islands, lunch was served before everyone got into the water for snorkelling, trying to locate Manta Rays, which are a common sight at Koh Bon. And yes, on a few trips we did see them however mostly, they eluded us. The Manta Rays are amazing animals, moving softly and relaxed in the water, appearing as they have nil care in the world, yet when you’re close, you can tell that they appear to be observing you and were keeping an eye on what you are doing.
After reaching island 8 and mooring up in Donald Duck Bay, identified by the distinct rock formation, we came ashore and climbed the rocky area where we could get a great view overlooking the bay. This was usually a great spot to spend the late afternoons, watching the sunset before we returned to our boat.
Day 2 normally started with me waking up, jumping in the ocean and then grabbing a quick coffee before I got the equipment ready for the day. After breakfast we travelled south, making several stops among the islands for snorkelling where the underwater life that the Similan Islands offer is always on full display. Usually on our tours we saw everything from white tip sharks, Moray eels, sea turtles, Barracudas, Clown Fish, Trumpet fish, Oriental Sweet lips, Butterfly-fish, Parrot fish, Angelfish, Porcupine Rays, Giant Triggerfish and more. The triggerfish was the one fish to be cautions around as it’s very territorial and will attach if you come to close to its nest. My favourites however were always the Lionfish and of course, the gentle Manta Rays.
Upon reaching Island 4, I attended the park rangers’ office, where I paid the park entrance fee and normally after this, I took a group with me on a hike to the island’s viewpoint. A hot, sweaty climb, filled with mosquitoes, but well worth it as the views from the top were amazing.
Some nights, we snorkelled with torches, which was very different from day time. Usually we saw red fishes with huge black eyes and a few sharks. What was really amazing however though, was the fluorescent algae in the water as it was like swimming whilst surrounded by stars. Usually everyone took a turn to dive down, spinning as they dove, allowing the rest of us to see the water light up.
Throughout these trips, I often offered to guide guest during snorkelling, which a few took up, however, most of the time, I was left to my own, leaving me to practise on my free diving skills where I’ve almost 20m. It’s a lot of fun, diving to these depths, in particular when I can see groups of divers swimming past me.
On the last day, we always reached island 1 which is looked after by the Thailand Navy. Here they run a sea turtle conservation centre where they dig the eggs up, keeping the turtle in large tubs before they bring them to the mainland where they are kept for 5 years before they are returned to the same island and released. Our boat was usually given permission to go onshore and we always got to see the cutest baby turtles, usually 2-300 of them which was always a highlight of the trip. But, not only did we get to see the baby turtles, the beach on this island is just amazing, all white and goes on forever.
On one of our trips, the hydraulics in the boat’s steering stopped working forcing us to find a replacement ship. A larger one was found, which came with cabins instead of a big sleeping area and where I got my own room for once.
I also got my diving certificate on the Similan Islands. I’ve been wanting to get it done for a while but due to several reasons, I just never got around to it. So, on one of the tours that Marcus was guiding, were they weren’t a lot of guests, Fiona, a friend of mine who works as a Dive Instructor, told me that she was willing to teach me to dive. After obtaining the required tanks and reading material, I got to practise clearing the mask, retrieve the regulator etc at one of the shallow areas of the Similans. Having been snorkelling and used to the equipment, I didn’t really have any problems with the skills. Over the next 2 days I did the required 4 dives and passed all the tests. It was amazing having a private instructor, getting the certificate for next to nil cost and of course, being allowed to obtain it at the Similans, I couldn’t ask for anything better!
After returning to land, we caught up with some friends when we were celebrating my Open Water certificate. Whilst here, another instructor, Clive, asked me if I wanted to continue, and take the Advanced Open Water course. He told me that I could go with them on a 4 day dive trip and get my advanced course, including 14 dives, for 12.500 baht (well under half price). Of course I told him that I would do it and the next evening (dive boats always leave at night to be able to do the first dive early in the morning) we left, getting a briefing on the boat, about how the days would be like.
We were awaken at 6.30 the next morning, as our first dive was at 7.30, the next one at 11.30, the third one around 16 and the last dive of the day was a night dive at 19. My first night dive and also the first dive towards my advanced certification (you need 5 special dives and I had chosen to do Night Dive, Deep Dive, Compass, Dive planner and Boat diving). The night dive is totally different from the others since everything looks more mysterious. And since you go down with a torch the colours are more enhanced. Pure beauty, as I’ve gotten accustomed to at the Similans.
During this diving trip I saw first of all lots of fishes that I always see when snorkelling, discovering many new ones as well and also lots of shrimps and crabs. I also saw my first leopard shark, an amazing fish which moved through the water with no care in the world. The only thing that I’m a little disappointed was that we didn’t find any Manta Rays whilst diving.
The deep dive was fun, we descended to 30 m where I had to do some skills to see if the depth was affecting me or not, which I had nil issued with. Some people can feel like they are drunk/high and ignore everything else. That’s why you need an experienced instructor that keeps an eye on you. All in all I did 13 of the 14 dives as I was experiencing a few problems whilst trying to equalise my ears during the third dive on the second day so I skipped the night dive that night. The next day I was feeling ok again though and continued with the last few dives.
The whole experience was amazing and I loved how I managed to obtain not only the normal Open Water Certificate but also the Advanced course. The Similan Islands are one of the most beautiful islands I have ever seen and I’m the lucky person that get to travel to them on a weekly basis.
Unfortunately, it was all going to change on the upcoming boxing day.
